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15th c. French cooking manuscript translation review
Poster: "Garrett, William" <WGarrett@sierrahealth.com>
Submiited for your consumpton:
> Terence Scully. <i>The Vivendier: A Critical Edition with English
> Translation</i>. Totnes, Devon: Prospect Books, 1997. Pp. vi +
> 129. $24.00 (pb) ISBN: 0907325815.
>
> Reviewed by Constance B. Hieatt
> University of Western Ontario (emerita)
> constance.hieatt@yale.edu
>
> Terence Scully's edition of the <i>Vivendier</i>, a mid-15th-
> century French culinary manuscript, makes a significant
> contribution to our knowledge of medieval French cookery. Only a
> very few medieval French culinary collections have survived, and
> this one nicely complements the others which have been found and
> edited in recent years. That is, the two long-known major
> collections, the <i>Viandier</i> and the <i>Menagier</i>,
> primarily represent the cooking of Paris and, insofar as they are
> clearly related to earlier, less extensive collections, such as
> the <i>Enseignemenz</i>, continue a basic 'central' courtly
> tradition. Carole Lambert's <i>Recueil de Riom</i> (1988) gave
> us one from the Auvergne, well to the south, and Scully's edition
> of Chiquart (1985/1986) one from about as far south but from the
> extreme eastern edge of what is now France. The
> <i>Vivendier</i>, as Scully ably demonstrates, emanates from the
> far north, and is equally removed from the central 'Paris'
> tradition: as witness its lavish use of dairy foods, especially
> butter.
>
> Its publication supplies a bracing corrective to earlier
> conclusions that butter was considered unworthy of the upper
> classes at this time -- see, e.g., Jean-Louis Flandrin, "Et le
> beurre conquit la France," <i>L'Histoire</i> 85 (1986), 108-111.
> While it is true that the <i>Vivendier</i> is a comparatively
> late text, its witness suggests that the use or rejection of
> butter was more a regional matter. (Butter is never mentioned in
> the somewhat later <i>Recueil de Riom</i>, and milk is called for
> there only once.)
>
> Nor is this sort of thing the only way in which the
> <i>Vivendier</i> provides us with exciting new information. It
> contains recipes unrecorded elsewhere, with often baffling
> titles. Anyone interested in early culinary history will find
> this work indispensable -- including philologists, who will have
> their work cut out to penetrate further than Scully has into the
> meaning of some of the unheard-of terms here, such as the titles
> "La brehee" and "Pignagosce": Scully's attempt to suggest a
> meaning for the latter is pretty unconvincing, but the only
> alternative I can suggest is that it may have originally had
> something to do with pine nuts -- which, however, are not
> mentioned in the recipe.
>
> As an edition, it is quite satisfactory, well researched, with a
> full introduction, helpful commentary, and useful appendices.
> The appendix listing ingredients does not indicate recipe numbers
> where these ingredients appear, but they can easily be located by
> consulting the glossary; presumably that is why a separate index
> is not provided. Nor is a truly comprehensive bibliography:
> Scully lists only the texts he cites most frequently, referring
> the reader to Bruno Laurioux's <i>Le regne de Taillevent</i>
> (also 1997) for further up-to-date bibliography. But it is a
> little hard on the reader when Scully makes a later short
> citation without referring the reader to an earlier note where
> full information about the work cited was included -- as is the
> case with note 57.3 on page 80, which could have been cross-
> referenced to note 6 on page 3.
>
> Laurioux's <i>Le regne de Taillevent</i> includes, in an
> appendix, a transcription of the same manuscript; his readings,
> made from a microfilm, often differ from Scully's. Since his
> transcription is not a full-fledged edition, there is no
> discussion in this section of what Laurioux thinks is meant by
> odd titles and terminology, although a few of these dishes are
> briefly discussed earlier in the book. I do not have access to
> the manuscript, or a microfilm of it, so I cannot confirm any of
> the variant readings, but on the whole Scully's often seem to
> make better sense. However, in the following comments to that
> effect, I do not mean to reflect unfavorably here on Laurioux's
> very learned and important book: since he was NOT doing an
> annotated edition, it may not have always occurred to him to
> double- (or triple-) check his readings. As an experienced
> editor, I know that one frequently sees one's errors in
> transcribing a manuscript of this period only when one realizes
> what a more sensible reading might be.
>
> One difference between the two transcripts is the numbering of
> recipes; this is, of course, an editorial decision, and of little
> consequence, but I think I would have decided, as Scully did,
> that the detailed lists of ingredients with, surprisingly
> exact, quantities appended to two recipes are part of the
> foregoing recipes, not to be numbered separately. More important
> are such different readings as Scully's "Votte lombard," where
> Laurioux reads "torte lombarde." Scully points out that 'votte'
> is, according to Godefroy, a variant spelling for 'volte,' an
> omelet or crepe, and that is what this recipe would produce, not
> a tart. It is identical to one of the variants of an English
> recipe called 'voutes' (or 'Faltes,' in the manuscript which has
> the variant closest to the <i>Vivendier</i>'s recipe: see
> Hieatt, <i>An Ordinance of Pottage</i>, p. 78).
>
> Another case where an English parallel may confirm Scully's
> reading is the recipe for "Souppe de cambrelencq," where Laurioux
> reads "souppe de carubrelencq." This recipe is identical to a
> frequent English recipe entitled "Soupes Chamberlayn" in one
> manuscript, variously spelled (and misspelled) in a number of
> others. Other cases where Scully's readings are the more
> attractive are "Vermiseaux de cecille," glossed as "Sicilian
> Vermicelli," as against "Vermiscaux de cocille," which Laurioux
> admits finding baffling, and "Brouet de hongherie," which Scully
> glosses as "Hungarian Broth," as against "Brouet de hongheue,"
> which Laurioux does not try to gloss. This latter recipe is meat
> in a thick, spiced broth which is to be made as red as blood:
> perhaps we have here an ancestor of Hungarian Goulash?
>
> A case in which I cannot chose between the two is Scully's
> "Lyemesolles sur tout bon grain," vs. "Hemasolles sur tout bon
> grain." While Laurioux gives no suggestion as to what the latter
> might mean, Scully's gloss of 'snails' is questionable when no
> snails are, apparently, called for, and, unlike Scully, I find
> it difficult to see that this dish would end up looking at all
> like snails. (Further, Scully confuses the reader by suggesting
> several times in the introduction that a recipe for snails
> appears in this collection.)
>
> Both editors agree in reading one recipe as "Soupe crotee," which
> Scully glosses as 'Lumpy Sops,' and tentatively links to 'crud.'
> I think, however, that 'crotee' is more likely to be related to
> English 'clot,' German 'Klotz': lump or dumpling. Perhaps the
> present editors, or someone earlier in the transmission of the
> recipe, misread an <i>l</i> as an <i>r</i>? In this case,
> however, the cooked lumps of cheese might in effect be much like
> a modern cheese fondue, and could (possibly) be better compared to
> 'clotted cream.'
>
> About the only point on which I find Scully to be clearly in
> error is his note on page 38 saying "In all likelihood this
> <i>pouldre</i> is a scribal error for <i>sale</i>": in fact, the
> two words are synonyms. English recipes usually call salt meat
> or fish 'powdered'; see, e.g., Austin's glossary to <i>Two
> Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books</i>, p. 141.
>
> Finally, a shopping tip for any North Americans who have
> difficulty finding a copy of this book (my local bookstore
> couldn't locate it). It is stocked by the Food Heritage Press,
> P.O. Box 163, Ipswich, MA 01938-0163; telephone 508-356-
> 8306; email foodbks@shore.net. If you want to know what else
> they have, their Web address is http://www.foodbooks.com. Anyone
> interested in this area ought to want this book, so I hope I may
> be excused for including what may seem to be a "commercial": the
> bookstore did not ask me to, or bribe me in any way, I assure
> you, nor do I have any connection with it.
>
>
>
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