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RE: help,please

%*Ah*.  This sounds like it would apply, to a lesser extent, to a male
%cotehardie as well; fitting a flat chest should be easier, but still.

Point of procedure here.  This is one of the places where most people get
their terminology wrong.  Men generally do not wear "cote-hardie" they
wear a garment that has a wide variety of names that are roughly "doublet".

>From "Jean d'Arc Ses Cotumes et Son Armure" by Adrienne Harmond":
"The gippon called also the jupe, jupel, or jupon, itself again called the 
doublet, or as well pourpoint a qualification which signifies quilting, for 
the reason which it was made of a stuffing of cotton and cloth refuse 
maintained by stitches.  It is found to be the first garment which one puts 
on the chemise corresponding in this manner to our vest, with this one 
difference which became at the end of the 14th C. much more necessary, since 
taken in place of suspenders, it supports the hose which were attached to 
pp 99-100.

And later " jupeaus de vestir or doubles a vestir".  

Of course being an erudite denizen of Ponte Alto, I read French 
reasonably well, so that with a dictionary I have most folks at a 
disadvantage.  I highly recommend the book, not so much for its 
content as for its footnotes.  The most unfortunate part is that some
of the things mentioned in the foot notes were lost.  WWI and WWII 
clobbered them.

Here is the foot note I used to clobber the argument against hook and
eye closures on these garments:

p. 101 footnote number three; 1388 - "To have made and forged 84 eyelettes 
and 168 hooks or ratchets of gold for putting in these eyelets put and 
<assesior> on 2 pourpoint of <broderie>." (ler Cpte d'Arnoul Boucher, fol. 
106 verso. ap.  Gay, Gloss. archeol., t. 1, pl 17).
The barbacanes were metallic loops analogous to our modem hooks and eyes. 
 These which are here question were found made of like pieces which required 
two hooks for a single eye..

Note the words that I have not yet found translations of.....
Well you get the idea.

%|John (Francis) Stracke        | http://www.io.com/~francis | PGP key on 
%  Francois Thibault          AFP of PA!       Shire of the Blak Rose (East)
 % Argent, a cock gules, and, on a chief sable, three standing stones argent