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Poster: terry_buyers@catbox.win.net (Terry Buyers)

S(>Poster: Stephen Christopher Boggs <scboggs@erols.com>
S(>	I just received my armor and there were no holes drilled 
S(>the straps.  I was wondering was type of drill bit I would need 
S(>drilling the holes and what company should I by from.
S(>Thank you for your help.
S(>Cristopharus filius Philippi

I drill a _lot_ of holes in steel and aluminum at work and also make a little
armor. In my experience there are two kinds of drill bits: Cheap and lots, and
expensive and few.

I usually buy a jobber grade from a sheet metal supply house or similar.
Drilling plate, if you get the drill out of alignment, the bit can catch and
snap. This is a drag if you are using a titanium nitride bit or similar exotic
tip/metal that cost many bux. 

Since I run a lot of 1/8" holes, I buy the double-ended type production bits.
This means when you break the tip off one end, you just turn the thing around
without having to chase down another bit. Harbor Freight and Bit Lots usually
have this sort. 

The main problem with cheap bits is the metal is not the best and usually
won't hold a temper if you heat them up while drilling. Obviously, when you
get paid by the job, you burn the tip off a couple a day, then re-sharpen them
on the grinding wheel that night. If you go slow, and use a few drops of
kerosine or oil for lubricant, the cheapest bits will last as long as the
best. A couple of strokes with a file will renew the cutting edge in no time. 

For drilling hardened metal like fire doors and safe doors, I either use
titanium nitride coated or carbide tipped bits. The little devils are
expensive, but will slowly cut through the hardest metals. I've occasionally
had to drill ceramic tile and glass, and these bits cut that as well. 

Stainless is suprisingly hard to cut; it will chip and clog even the best of
bits. Go slow and use a lubricant. 

If you can find someone that has one, a Roper-Whitney punch or something
similar is a heck of a lot faster for putting holes in plate.

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