Re: Hose, points and doublets

[David KUIJT <kuijt@umiacs.umd.edu>]

Poster: David KUIJT <kuijt@umiacs.umd.edu>



On Tue, 3 Mar 1998, Julien de Montfort wrote:

> Certain types of late period hose were constructed as a single
> garment (as opposed to independent leg pieces), and secured by means
> of 'points' to a close-fitting garment worn on the torso.  That much I
> got.

Late-period means what, precisely?  And where?  In the years between 1350
and 1500 there was a LOT of change in the construction of hosen.  I cannot
speak to the sixteenth century.

In the 15th century the hosen were attached to the doublet/jupon/various
other names.  In the paintings/frescoes of Piero della Francesca (N. 
Italian, c.1450 approx) you can see examples where the hosen are tied over
the doublet and where the hosen are tied under the doublet; in both cases
the points show through.  One of my knowledgeable friends assures me that
the cases where no points show on the doublet may be due to the use of an
interior waistliner thingie sewn to the inside of the doublet that has
holes for the points; this technique is apparently common enough a little
later (16th c.? she says, I think).  Further, an earlier (14th c.) 
technique could also be used, where the points are tied to a separate
belt.  In all cases the shirt would be worn under this mechanism.

A houpellande was an outer garment worn over the doublet/jupon.

Joined hosen (a single garment) appear in the 15th century, but
separate hosen (two separate leggings, each with their own points) appear
to be more common throughout the 15th century.  You will often see workers
(e.g. the gravedigger in a fresco of Peiro della Francesca) with their
hosen rolled down and bare legs, exposing their shirt and sometimes their
underwear.

Dafydd ap Clotheshorse

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