Re: info: early tudor kirtle

["Sharon Henderson" <sharon@intercon.com>]

> Does anyone know how the early tudor (Elizabeth of York, wife of Henry 
> VII) was cut?  I can't find any pictures that show seam placement.  I 
> have a couple of pictures a little later that look like princess seam 
> in front (skirt flat in front) with a waist seam in back and 
> extra material pleated on the back.  Would this be right?  Can anyone 
> tell me what books are good for this transitional period? Giovanna 


Greetings, milady Giovanna!

	I have a small paperback art book at home, called (something like) 
_Every Painting by Holbein_, which is part of a series.  It doesn't show a lot 
of detail on Elizabeth of York's gown, but versions I have seen, show several 
different transitional styles that led from the high-waisted Burgundian style 
gowns, to a looser, fastened-down-the front gown that was worn over a narrow-
sleeved kirtle and a chemise, all three with square necklines, such as would 
become the main style as the Tudor period wore on.  Period Patterns has a 
couple of versions in their Early Tudor Women's pattern; those are not easy 
patterns to use, however, and I've never had the sizing come out the same 
twice.  Still, I do like them .... :-)

	The Holbein book does, however, show very nice detailing of Jane 
Seymour's famous red velvet gown, where you can see what look like gold 
pinheads down the front-side seam of the over-dress.  Janet Arnold's costuming 
book for stage/TV/Movie production gives a pattern for this dress, and shows 
the front as being laced shut, then a panel which appears to be sewn down on 
the right side of the front, is folded over the lacing to hide it, and 
apparently pinned in place on the left as per the detailed photo in the 
Holbein book.

	I don't recall seeing one with the princess-style seaming in front and 
the waist with pleating in the back, but that does not mean it never existed.  
Look hard for good docs on that, before expending the time to make one; it 
sounds really interesting and pretty, but my experience has been that if an 
outfit is unusual, people *will* express an interest in it!  Good 
documentation and ready answers will garner you many an Oooh and Ahhh!  :-)

	I'd be interested in checking this out myself; where did you see 
pictures?  This transitional era is well lodged in my persona's lifetime (or 
maybe the other way around! <g>) and I'm always open to new, cool information! 
:-)

	I hope some of this helps!  Let me know what you find.

	Blessings,
	Meli ferch Iasper

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